Trancoso's Best-Kept Secret: Uxua Casa Hotel & Spa
A Hidden Treasure in Bahia's Bohemian Beach Town of Brazil
Background Story:
After my mother and I decided to explore the State of Bahia instead of Iguazu Falls, I started researching and asked my Brazilian friend if there were any towns worth visiting after Salvador. They recommended visiting Trancoso if we had the time, which we agreed to do because our trip was primarily focused on exploring Brazil.
A brief history of Trancoso: The region is where the Portuguese first discovered Brazil, specifically in the town of Porto Seguro, by Pedro Álvares Cabral in 1500. Following its discovery by Álvares Cabral, European settlements arrived in Brazil. Today, Porto Seguro is where the airport is located if you want to go to Trancoso, which takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes.
The town was previously a fishing town. In the 1970s, hippies settled in and coexisted with the local fishing community. They liked the area's natural beauty, including stretches of undisturbed beaches and the town's grassy main square. Hippies and indigenous peoples who had previously lived apart for decades are now banding together to share their tropical beauty with the rest of the world.
Nowadays, Trancoso is known for its serene atmosphere, which has attracted many artists and designers from around the world to visit. It's often nicknamed the “Tulum of Brazil” because of its immaculate vibes, cleanliness, and laid-back attitude among its residents, who all enjoy the beautiful surroundings together.
Hotel Insights
When visiting smaller towns, I usually research through several websites to find underrated hotels in the area. Some useful websites include Kiwi Collection, Small Luxury Hotels of the World, and The Leading Hotels of the World. Additionally, I read guest reviews, which are very helpful in choosing a hotel.
In Trancoso, I will be staying at the Uxua Casa Hotel & Spa. Wilbert Das, the former creative director of the fashion brand Diesel for 20 years, and his business partner, Bob Shelvin, founded this hotel. During a 2004 vacation, they fell in love with the area's natural beauty, bohemian atmosphere, and laid-back people. Eventually, they created Uxua, in 2006 which means "wonderful" in Pataxo, the indigenous language of Bahia.
The town's authentic craftsmanship and arts scene serve as inspiration for Uxua. The collection of 12 Casas, originally fishermen’s houses painted in vibrant rainforest colours like parrot green, bougainvillaea cerise, and kingfisher blue, is filled with unique handcrafted pieces and beautifully textured with recycled and reclaimed furnishings. Each house is one-of-a-kind, a stark contrast to cookie-cutter hotels, with many contents resulting from ongoing collaborations with local artisans and artists who have worked with Das.
For this trip, we will be staying in Casa Seu João one of the 12 beautiful casas. UXUA recreated the fisherman traditional home as an open house, removing walls to reveal a tropical oasis of private gardens and inviting in Bahia’s tropical breezes and light.
Pre-Arrival
The pre-service at Uxua Casa Hotel & Spa was noticeably different from the two hotels we previously stayed at in Brazil. When corresponding with the hotel's representative, the communication felt more genuine, less robotic, and very responsive. A day before our arrival, I received a WhatsApp message from them, reminding us about the private transfers and offering assistance with anything we might need before we arrived. This kind of service truly made us feel cared for.
It's worth noting that flights to Trancoso from Salvador are limited; not all days have service, and Porto Seguro Airport is very small. Therefore, I recommend arranging private transfers through your hotel, as I did not see any Uber services available in this town.
The journey from the airport takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes, offering mesmerising views along the way. The chill vibe of Trancoso immediately struck us upon arrival at the main square.
Check-in
The hotel is very discreet, with no signs or noticeable entrance. It felt like we were entering a hidden alley leading to someone's home. Two staff members, who knew our names, warmly greeted us upon getting out of the car, which I appreciated. They informed us that our stay would span three days.
The staff made us feel right at home, chatting, laughing with us, and asking how we were. They explained the hotel map and highlighted various facilities, such as the spa and the Uxua boutique, which sells unique items like sunglasses made from animal bones, necklaces crafted from African gemstones, and other items sourced from artisans worldwide.
I genuinely felt at home here; the people were very welcoming, and the atmosphere was vibrant, even though only one or two people spoke English. One of the staff members then escorted us to Casa Seu João. Overall, I was very impressed with the concept, design, and service of this hotel.
Rooms
My first impression upon arriving at Casa Seu João was that it was the perfect sanctuary. The design of the room and the surrounding landscape, including the meticulously curated plant collection, created an incredible vibe. I was speechless and loved every detail. The lights and candles placed around the property at night were also impressive. Honestly, it's the most vibey hotel I've ever stayed at.
The casa boasts a small pool that serves as both a jacuzzi and an outdoor shower. Respected local artisans, in collaboration with international artists and the hotel owner, crafted all the furniture and items in the room. This added a sense of appreciation for the unique history behind each piece. This Casa also one hosted for one of my favourite architects and designers, Vincent Van Duysen.
Restaurants, Bars, and Spas
The property has three outlets. The main restaurant, located by the main pool, is where guests typically have breakfast and lunch. Not far away is the second restaurant, located in the main square of Trancoso, which serves dinner and lunch. Every day, bossa nova music plays from speakers on the way to the second restaurant, making me feel like I'm visiting a Brazilian friend's home with everyone greeting us with a smile.
The third outlet is the Uxua Beach Club, which is somewhat far from the hotel. It’s about a 13-minute walk on narrow paths or a 5-minute drive if you ask the hotel for a ride. Given that the beach club doesn't have a direct connection to the hotel, this distance could pose a challenge.
In terms of food, the taste was quite good. We tried all three outlets, and each had its own character and vibe, making it hard to pick a favourite.
We didn’t use the spa during this trip because we spent most of our time chilling at the beach club and main square.
Service
The service at the property was amazing! Everything about the property was well-rounded, from the reservation department to the reception, where we received personalized greetings, to the courteous driver. Even though most of the staff didn’t speak English, we were still able to communicate effectively.
However, there was one issue during our stay. When my mother and I wanted to go to a popular beach club in the outskirt, no drivers were available, so the reception called another staff member to take us. This staff member didn’t know the location and didn’t speak English, so when we felt the place was too far, we got worried and called the hotel. Communication was slow due to the language barrier, but eventually, we arrived safely at the beach club.
Overall, despite this hiccup, the service was still amazing!
Next Post:
I intended to review the Fairmont Hotel in Rio de Janeiro in my next post. However, my experience there was disappointing. I had a miserable helicopter tour it was so rimbache, and the room cost £612 for a double room, which seemed excessive considering the low-quality materials used throughout the property. Despite Fairmont's promise of Le Labo amenities, they provided cheaper alternatives, possibly due to the Madonna concert during our stay. The food was great, but overall, the experience was not worth reviewing.
Instead, I have a surprise planned for the next post. So stay tuned!
Highlights:
Very underrated
Stunning design, architecture and service throughout the property
Immaculate vibes
Cons:
Low english proficiency among staff
The beach is not connected with the property
My Verdict:
Location: 9/10
Design: 9.5/10
Service: 9.5/10
Food: 9/10
Rooms: 10/10
Fafa’s overall experience: 9.4/10