Uncovering the Allure of One&Only Portonovi
The Epitome of True Luxury Hospitality
After spending four incredible days in the “Pearl of the Adriatic,” it was finally time to head to Montenegro. Before the trip, I chatted with friends who had been to both Croatia and Montenegro, and they said that Montenegro felt more “untouched” compared to Croatia. With fewer tourists, Montenegro is like a hidden gem—think New Zealand’s landscapes mixed with Italy’s charm, thanks to its history with the Venetian Empire. Just a heads-up: Montenegro isn’t part of the EU, but it does accept Schengen visas and uses the Euro as its currency.
Initially, we planned to stay at the Aman Sveti Stefan. But to my surprise, it was closed - apparently, during COVID, the owner couldn’t keep up with payments, so the property is currently taken over by the government. So after more research, I picked on One&Only Portonovi, a relatively new hotel known as the most luxurious property in Montenegro.
In this post, I’ll give you a closer look at One&Only Portonovi, which I believe truly defines what luxury hospitality should be. From the first email with the concierge to every little detail on-site that makes it an unforgettable stay. This is a place that raises the bar, and I can’t wait to share with you why this property is beyond ordinary.
Hotel Insights
One&Only Resorts has long been synonymous with high-end luxury, creating immersive escapes across some of the world’s most breathtaking destinations. Known for its unique blend of elegance and sense of place, the brand tailors each property to reflect its surroundings—whether in the Maldives, Mexico, or Mauritius. Each One&Only retreat offers something truly distinctive, catering to travelers who crave not just comfort, but also a deep connection to the culture and nature of each location.
One&Only Portonovi is the brand’s first European property, located along Montenegro’s stunning Bay of Kotor, this resort opened in 2021 and designed by Jean-Michel Gathy, an architect known for his work on some of the world’s most prestigious hotels such as Cheval Blanc Randheli, Aman New York, The Chedi Andermatt, etc. The property combines Mediterranean charm with Montenegro’s unique beauty. The design seamlessly blends terracotta rooftops and Venetian-inspired stonework to honor the local heritage, creating a look that feels at once grand and perfectly suited to its surroundings.
With 60 rooms and suites, as well as private villas, the resort caters to guests seeking exclusivity and intimacy. The property is also home to the renowned Chenot Espace wellness center, where guests can unwind and recharge with holistic treatments. Surrounded by the stunning Adriatic coastline, Portonovi combines adventure and relaxation, offering an experience that feels exclusive and undeniably luxurious.
Pre-Arrival
Before our arrival, I reached out to the concierge team to arrange a pick-up from the Excelsior in Dubrovnik. Communication was seamless, and the driver arrived on time, friendly and well-informed, he filled us in on the history of Montenegro as he drove, even sharing highlights about neighbouring spots like Mostar in Bosnia, which I’ve also heard is well worth a visit. The journey took about an hour and 15 minutes, depending on traffic and border control, but the process was smooth—no need to get out of the car, just a quick check. And the view along the way was like something out of a dream.
Check-in & Room
When we arrived, we were warmly welcomed by three staff members who greeted us by name. I genuinely appreciate this kind of personal touch; it made us feel valued and truly welcomed. Kristina from the guest experience team escorted us to the lounge, where the sweeping view of the bay was mesmerising. My first impression of the property’s design was wow—grand and luxurious, though not entirely my style, it was clear that the architecture blended beautifully with its surroundings. The staff were equally impressive, genuinely friendly and attentive, asking about our journey to the property and offered us drinks of our choice. The lounge team and Rade from guest services took the time to introduce themselves, chat with us, and explain the resort’s dining options and amenities.
A few moments later, Rade guided us to our Bay view room. From the moment we stepped inside, every detail—from the elegant furnishings to the sleek finishes and chandelier—radiated sophistication. The bathroom and bedroom felt like I was in a Venetian Empire Mansion, with the picturesque view over Boka Bay. This room was superb, an ideal blend of elegance and comfort.
Restaurants & Bars
The resort offers three restaurants and a bar, and we had the chance to try each one. First up was Tapasake, the Japanese restaurant near the port. For those not inclined to walk, a golf cart is available to whisk you over. The food here was excellent, with the chef personally greeting us to introduce the catch of the day. Service was attentive—sometimes a bit too much, as the staff frequently checked in on us, but better a touch over-attentive than impersonal or aloof. Next, there’s La Veranda, located just below the lobby with views of Kotor Bay, where breakfast is served daily. Each visit, the chef made the time to come by and greet us, and the food was great, with flavors much more vibrant than what we’d experienced in Croatia. Then we tried Sabia, the Italian restaurant overlooking both the bay and mountains. The ambiance was delightful, though the food was just okay in comparison to Tapasake, which stood out as the best dining experience. Finally, Caminetti Bar, situated by the lobby, exuded a warm, homelike vibe, with its staff creating a truly welcoming atmosphere.
Spa & Activities
During our stay, we also enjoyed the spa, which I’d easily rank among the best I’ve experienced. Initially, I didn’t have high expectations, assuming a non-Asian therapist might not excel in massage, but my Montenegrin therapist was incredibly skilled. This spa experience joins my personal favorites, alongside Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, Four Seasons Bali Jimbaran Bay, and The Dolder Grand in Zurich. The spa’s partnership with wellness brand Chenot elevates the offerings further. The property also boasts five outdoor pools and a spacious indoor pool, giving guests ample ways to unwind.
For activities, we opted to rent a boat to explore nearby islands such as Boka Bay, Perast, the Lady of the Rocks, and Kotor. Our captain, Neno, was fantastic, and the hotel provided us with snacks and sparkling wines. Surrounded by Montenegro’s unexpectedly dreamy scenery, I was struck by just how underrated this country is—its beauty is truly cinematic.
Service
The service here is truly exceptional, with every staff member remembering our names and personal preferences. For example, after my mum mentioned her love for chili powder at Tapasake, the next morning, the waitress had it ready at breakfast without being asked. Small touches like this continued throughout our stay, with the team remembering my go-to order each day. This is the kind of personalized attention that luxury hotels strive for but rarely achieve.
Every interaction, from the driver and guest services, spa therapist to the restaurant staff and our boat captain, was marked by genuine warmth. Although the checking up on us could occasionally feel a bit too frequent, the overall experience was among the best I’ve had. One&Only Portonovi feels like a blend of Aman’s exclusivity and Mandarin Oriental’s warmth—a property that leaves a lasting impression.
Highlights
Outstanding service
Stunning landscapes
Exceptional spa
Cons
Limited activities around the area; a boat or car rental is necessary to explore more of Montenegro
Fafa’s Verdict
Location: 8.5/10
Design: 9/10
Service: 10/10
Food: 8.5/10
Rooms: 10/10
Fafa’s Overall Experience: 9.2/10